Southern Spotlight: Meadow Creek Appalachian

  Here it is, another month, and once again I am talking about cheese. It being Spring, I wanted to showcase a cheese that embodies the season. There are, of course, many cheeses that can do just that. Most would also fall under the sheep and/or goat category. But for me, Appalachian from Meadow Creek Dairy practically screams green pastures and budding flowers.
  Let me back up for a moment. About three years ago, I had the great opportunity of interning at Meadow Creek for one month. I took a short hiatus from the cheese counter to hike it up to the rolling hills of the Shenandoah Valley in Galax, Virginia. Myself and my dog (Frankie) were graciously greeted by a family eager to show me all about their world of farmstead cheese. It was also the height of Spring (a.k.a. Allergy Hell). Having just survived round #1 in Georgia, it was a very long Spring.
  But in between the drug induced hazes and long hours in the cheese cellar, the dog and I spent a great deal of time hiking the many acres of their beautiful farm land and hanging out with the dairy cows. I can say that the taste of Appalachian reminds me in every way of those Springtime walks.



the farm



Hello ladies



future cheese



The Cellar

  Appalachian was the first cheese made by the Feetes at the award winning Meadow Creek. It is in the classic French tomme style, aged for at least 60 days in their underground cheese cellar. The fluffy white Penicilium mold (yes, mold is good!) is allowed to grow on the rind, giving way to an earthy yet lively cheese underneath. Being that Galax is a quaint little mountain town, the terrior no doubt adds to the complex layers of flavor.

 

  One bite and it is obvious this is a raw milk cheese. New green grass, mountain soil, and sweet warm milk shine through in its taste. The rind imparts a lovely earthy damp leaf flavor that is equally pleasant. Close your eyes and you can almost see Bambi, Thumper, and Flower. All the flavors meld into thoughts of creeks running through green meadows (hmm, wonder where the name came from?), ferns, fallen logs, and lightening bugs. But enough Hippie talk.
  I enjoyed today's wedge with a torn piece of baguette and a dollop of fresh strawberry jam. I find Appalachian lends itself very well to berries of all kinds. It also surprisingly does well with tropical fruits like kiwi and mango, which can be difficult to pair with cheese. For drink I would do a lovely summer Hefeweizen or a crisp white like a Pinot Grigio. I could also see a Perry (hard pear cider) working very well with it too.


It's also really good on one of these



  For anyone still questioning the merits of Southern cheese making, I dare you to try this cheese and tell me it's anything less than spectacular.

Tomme Sweet Tomme

  This past weekend I spent some time in Chattanooga, TN. Along with drinking multiple Yazoo beers and stuffing my face with delicious Urban Stack burgers, I also made my way over to Sequatchie Cove Creamery to meet the fine folks who craft such gems as Cumberland tomme. Later, I would come home to discover an entirely different tomme waiting for me.



Sequatchie Valley, TN



                                     

  Lucky me received another package from Point Reyes Dairy. While this one was not part of the official tasting, it was (I say was because it it quickly vanished into my mouth) very special in the sense that it is not available to the rest of the public.

  Having recently had the Cumberland, it was a fun comparison trying the Point Reyes tomme. While tomme is a style, the individual cheeses can all vary wildly. The Point Reyes was just as fantastic as Sequatchie Cove's example, but totally different. While the Cumberland is earthy, smooth, and somewhat soft, the Point Reyes was rather hard and crumbly. The paste was golden with large "crunchies" (amino acid clusters), and the nose was sweet, grassy, and tropical. The taste was surprising and fun; bright, sweet, salty, and bursting with lemon and grapefruit flavors. I made it a point to sample a piece with Yazoo's latest Hop Project. The tropical notes of the cheese danced around with the floral hoppiness of the beer, making a great pairing.

  The beauty in handcrafted cheeses like these is the individual uniqueness of the styles. These cheeses aren't mass manufactured, and that should be celebrated. My weekend of tomme made for a very sweet homecoming indeed. Tomme sweet tomme. Oh, I just couldn't help myself.

 

Southern Spotlight: Sequatchie Cove Cumberland

 
  A new cheese has come onto the southern scene lately that I think you need to know about. Sequatchie Cove is a farm located in Sequatchie Cove, Tennessee, which rests just above Chattanooga. Of the two cheeses they make currently, the one pictured here is Cumberland, a glorious example of a French-style Tomme.
  While Cheddar is a style everyone can easily grasp, Tommes are a little more difficult to get a handle on. Generally, their texture is light to semi soft and most posses a weathered rustic rind that gives the cheese an earthy aroma and taste. Tommes are fantastic on a cheese plate, and equally good when used in the kitchen. Potatoes are a natural partner.
 


Cumberland



  Sequatchie's take on Tomme is one of the best examples I have tasted. While the flavors are subtle, it is anything but boring. Their dairy herd includes the rare heritage breed Milking Devon, which is the pretty red cow featured on the label. Heritage animals impart a unique old fashioned flavor that modern Holsteins just can't achieve.
  The Cumberland is both rich and light, with a springy creamy texture. Nuttiness, fresh grass, milkiness, and damp cellar (which can be a good thing) are the boldest flavors that shine through. And the rind is one of the prettiest and most colorful natural rinds I've seen. I could easily see it being paired with pecans, green pears, a dry Riesling, or a Saison. I imagine this cheese would also be wonderful melted, but it never lasts long enough to find out.
  For cheese geeks like me, it is a very exciting time in American cheese culture (pun intended). Not only have we caught up to the European's quality, I think in some ways we are surpassing it. More exciting is when world class cheese dairies pop up near home. Sequatchie Cove's Cumberland is a fine example of a true Southern original.